Photographed and Written by Randy and Caly Behymer
Monument Valley is famous for its sandstone buttes and formations that makeup this unique landscape. There is more to this area than just the Monument Valley Tribal Park and one of the original homes to western movies. There are areas that beckon to be visited and explored, areas that are full of history, intrigue and geological wonders.
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10. Visit Goulding’s—In the early 1920s, Harry Goulding and his wife Leone bought a plot of land from the Paiute Indians and opened a trading post. When the Great Depression hit, the local tribes suffered, and Harry went to Hollywood to promote Monument Valley as a shooting location for movies, which became a movie-shooting sensation. Soon a lodge and dining hall were built to house and feed movie crews. Today, guests can stay at Goulding’s Lodge or RV & Campgrounds, dine at the Stagecoach Restaurant, tour the museum and take a peek at where Harry and Leone used to live.
9. Goosenecks State Park—If you’re searching for a less crowded version of the iconic Horseshoe Bend, you’ll want to visit Goosenecks State Park. Most visitors come to see the unique twisting of the San Juan River as it makes its way through the canyon floors below the state park. The park offers eight primitive camping sites along the canyon, revealing stunning Goosenecks views.
8. Tip Your Mexican Hat—The town and rock formation share the name of Mexican Hat. Both located off Route 163, north of Monument Valley, the rock formation is easily accessible via a short drive along a dirt road. Located on BLM land, the adventurous can boondock nearby. Be sure to stop in the town of Mexican Hat for traditional Navajo fry bread. Located on the San Juan River, this small town packs a mighty punch with restaurants, hotels and a small RV park.
7. Forrest Gump Point—This location on 163 North was made famous by the 1994 movie Forrest Gump. At this point, Forrest had been running across the country for quite some time, stopped and said to those following him: “I’m pretty tired. I think I’ll go home now.” Stop for a picture at this iconic spot, but respect those driving by and stay off the road. There are several pull-offs along the side of 163 at this sight, ensuring you’ll grab a memorable picture.
6. Camp Amongst the Ancients—Located on BLM land, the Valley of the Gods offers a jaw-dropping drive along a 17-mile dirt road. The road twists and turns through the sandy buttes and rock formations, and I recommend a high-clearance four-wheel drive vehicle. Plenty of dispersed boondock camping spots are throughout the loop, and a few sites near the entrances of 163 and 261 are accessible by larger RVs. Be sure to scout locations with your toad before venturing along the dirt road with your RV, as the road can sometimes become impassible.
5. Drive Toward the Heavens—The Moki (or Mokee) Dugway is a stretch of road on 261 that isn’t for the faint of heart. This 3-mile stretch of 261 is a dirt-and-gravel, one-lane drive that switchbacks up the side of Cedar Mesa. The road ascends a staggering 1,200 feet with a steep 11 percent grade. The views are stunning, and you can enjoy them at a couple of pull-offs up the cliff face and at the top of the mesa. I don’t recommend this road for RVs of any size or those afraid of heights and roads that plunge more than 1,000 feet to the mesa floor below.
4. House on Fire—Those daring enough to venture up the Moki Dugway can continue the well-paved 261 across the top of Cedar Mesa to 95 East. Near Mile Marker 102, turn off onto Arch Canyon Road and find the trailhead for Mule Canyon. The entire Mule Canyon hike is a relatively flat 4.3 miles one-way, but most hikers hike just the first mile to see the House on Fire. This ancient Pueblo dwelling nestles in a crevice of red sandstone that appears to be on fire when the sun hits the rocks. Continue on the hike to see additional ancient sites.
3. Natural Bridges National Monument—Crossing Cedar Mesa from the east to west on 95, then east on 275, you’ll arrive at Natural Bridges National Monument. This National Monument is home to three natural rock bridges that can be viewed from observation areas or hiked to for an up-close experience. Pro tip: If you plan to hike the entire 12-mile loop trail to see all three bridges, start your hike from the Owachomo Bridge, as the elevation from the parking area to the canyon floor is the least of all three. Hikes down to the arches are strenuous, with steep descents, switchbacks and slippery conditions. Shorter walks to observation overlooks promise more accessible paths and stunning views.
2. Say Good Morning to the Sun—There’s no better place to catch a sunrise than at the Monument Valley Tribal Park Visitor Center parking lot. As the sun rises over the massive rock formations that dot the Tribal Park below, shades of orange, purple, blue, red and pink are cast over the sky and rocks. It’s a humbling experience and worth waking up early for a spectacular view as Mother Nature shows you what she is capable of.
1. Tribal Park Loop Drive—The Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park is open daily (closed on major holidays) for guests to drive the 17-mile loop trail in and around the mittens, buttes and massive sandstone formations unique to this location. The roads are all rock and sand through the Tribal Park, so those looking to leave their car to the safe parking lot can take a guided tour of the valley and leave the driving to someone else. Plan on allowing several hours to make the entire loop drive and stop near the John Ford Point for a delicious meal, fry bread and a piece of Navajo art or jewelry.
There is so much more to see in the Monument Valley area than just the renowned Tribal Park. This list is a great place to start exploring all that the Oljato area of Utah has to offer.
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